Ah…ok Rome lovers, I get it now….

Last we chatted, dear readers, I was about to head back to Italy.  I boarded a flight in Nice filled with the best looking plane full of people I have ever seen, and laughed as Alitalia served a full meal with wine on a 55 minute flight at noon.  Yes, I think I’m going to like Rome….

I arrived in time for a very late lunch (I declined the plane meal, as lovely as I found the idea), and simply headed to a restaurant recommended by my hotel.  I have to say, my first meal in Rome was like a mild shock of electricity.  Oh, no no no… food in northern Italy is not like this.  It’s lovely, but it’s not like this.  All I had was meatballs and white beans (and wine of course) and it was magnificent.


Knowing I’d have two more full days here, I just walked around all afternoon.  Eventually I wandered past the Tivoli Fountain (or, rather, squished through the crowd there) and the Spanish steps.  I smiled at how theatrical and expressive Romans are….and now I get all the things I read about the differences between Rome and, say, Turin.  Turin is indeed full of buttoned-up bankers compared to Rome.  But I play a buttoned-up banker in my real life so I didn’t notice.  Rome is definitely closer to the Italy of my imagination.  Plus, you have love a city where adult professionals in suits walk around with ice cream cones after work.

I took another recommendation for dinner from the hotel, and had a lovely meal next to a mother and daughter from Australia.  This photo cracks me up – she is laughing because both of those giant books are wine lists.

The perennially hospitable Bobby from Frasca in Boulder sent several restaurant recommendations, but as this was a literally last minute trip, they were all booked except one, La Rosetta, which I am excited to go to tonight.  

In the morning I hired a tour guide to see the Vatican, and I’m so glad I went that route…. with a guide you skip the line, and all the plaque reading, which I have limited patience for.  It was just stunning, all of it.  I know for those of you who have been to Rome before this sounds like old hat, but I was like a wide-eyed kid for three hours.  I think St Peter’s basilica was my favorite part.  My guide, Laura, asked me if I wanted to pray in the small chapel on the side…

Are people who aren’t Catholic allowed to do that?  Pretty sure after all my dumb questions she is aware that I am not Catholic…

Well, she offered… so I went in and sat quietly for a moment, sending up a little prayer of gratitude for this amazing trip and hope for a continued life of adventure.  When I touched the foot of the statue of St Peter and made my wish, I wished for the same.

After I left Laura I wandered for a bit, and then settled on a little trattoria for lunch.  A Frenchwoman who was arriving at the same time suggested that we sit together.  I politely declined, in French, and she said, in English “oh for heaven’s sake, I don’t want to talk to you, it’s just easier for the restaurant if we share a table here where it’s crowded.”  

Oh.  Well, sure.  Ok then.  As promised, she did not say very much.  I of course immediately felt awkward about that and tried to start a conversation, which was met with a blank stare.  The French are quite capable of sitting and not making conversation….and we’re just…not.  Quite as much. But I’m sure the restaurant appreciated it.  😉

I walked to the Jewish quarter and the coliseum in the afternoon…it was hot, but a gorgeous day.  I really love the sculptural trees in Rome.  I feel like they’re what I notice most.  They’re everywhere, and so visually interesting.

As mentioned, I have limited capacity for plaque-reading, so I spent my time at the coliseum leaning over the railing and imagining the thunder of chariots and the roar of crowds…. not hard when you are standing there.

On the way back to the hotel I saw some very entertaining street artists….this guy especially made me laugh:

And this is a pretty common caricature drawing:

This morning I went on a short run in a park near my hotel and was rewarded with this view:

Here’s what’s important about this photo:  see that in the foreground?  That’s the start line for the Rome marathon.  Tomorrow.  200 meters from my hotel.  And my flight out of Rome is in the morning.  Wish me luck.

Cheers!

Traveling Girl